Babnjača craig
| Crag | Babjača |
| Town | Omiš |
| Region | Dalmatia |
| Area | Split |
| Sun on the crag | 8:00 – 12:00 |
| Approach Time | 5 |
| Rock Type | Limestone |
| Beauty (Stars) | |
| Bolting | 2 |
| Parking | 3 |
| Rock Quality | 2 |
| Family friendly | yes |
| Orientation | north-east |
| Angle | Vertical – Overhanging |
| Best period | feb,mar,apr,may,sept,oct,nov |
| GPS | latitude N | longitude E |
| GPS parking | 43.446752 | 16.687545 |
| GPS crag | 43.447550 | 16.687985 |
| GPS Sector 1 | 43.447550 | 16.687985 |
| GPS Sector 2 | 43.447550 | 16.687985 |
Description Crag
This crag was developed for trad climbing so there are a lot of old bolts and pitons.
Some of the routes have been retrobolted (with the approval of the first ascensionists). The multipitch routes require rebolting; hopefully we will do it soon. All the routes listed here are sport routes now.
The two sectors offer quite opposite climbing styles, even though they are at the same gps coordinates.
All routes can be climbed during summer as the crag is in the shade from 12:30 p.m.
How to get there?
Park anywhere in Omiš and you will have a short walk to the crag. The trail starts at ‘Četvrt Žarka Dražojevića 7’. It goes through the pine forest and leads you to the crag.
Access
Unmarked trail through the forest
Bolter
Pezollato, Gojak, Ferrante, Piccini, Rožman, Čikeš, Lisica, Whitall, Jeličić, Matković, Čujić,
Nemesis - sector
| Topo Num | Name | Difficulty | Bolts | Length | Notes EN | ||
| 1 | Za Karlu | 6b+ | 44 | 120 |
1st pitch: 25m, 4c; 2nd pitch: 32m, 6a+; 3rd pitch: 32m, 6b+; 4th pitch: 32m; 6a. All pitches are well bolted. For abseiling, use a 70-meter rope.The route shares the line with a traditional route so don’t follow the old bolts above the fourth pitch because after that it is not possible to abseil and there are some loose rocks. However, if you choose to go to the top, bring a few cams and slings as the 2 pitches to the top are not hard.
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| 1.1 | Za Karlu (1st pitch) | 4c | 25 | ||||
| 1.2 | Za Karlu (2nd pitch) | 6a+ | 32 | ||||
| 1.3 | Za Karlu (3rd pitch) | 6b+ | 32 | ||||
| 1.4 | Za Karlu (4th pitch) | 6a | 32 | ||||
| 2 | Fićo i Tomo | 6b+ | 22 |
Technical climbing on quite sharp rock with nice moves.
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| 3 | HPD Imotski | 7b+ | 50 |
1st pitch: 23 m (6b); 2nd pitch: 23 m, (7b+); The first pitch is technical while the second is fingery and technical. The second pitch offers an amazing view of Omiš and it feels like you are much higher than you actually are. Great line!
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| 3.1 | HPD Imotski (1st pitch) | 6b | 23 | ||||
| 3.2 | HPD Imotski (2nd pitch) | 7b+ | 23 | ||||
| 4 | Gagin | 8a+ | 55 |
1st pitch: 6b (30 m); 2nd pitch: 8a/8a+ (25 m). Aid climbed back in 1986 by Ivica Matković and Zdenko Mijanić. Rebolted and climbed by Ivan Lisica and Ivan Čikeš. This route hasn’t seen many repeats because you need to do the first pitch to access the hard second pitch, and because of the need for a patient climbing partner. Hopefully, that will change in the future because this route deserves more repeats.
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| 4.1 | Gagin (1st pitch) | 6b | |||||
| 4.2 | Gagin (2nd pitch) | 8a+ | |||||
| 5 | Nemesis | 7b | 90 |
1st pitch: 3; 2nd pitch: 7b; 3rd pitch: 7a; Additional equipment: two slings, 2 carabiners. The first pitch has some runouts but is easy. You can carry extra slings for putting protection around the trees on your way up. The first anchor is on a good ledge and looking up the second pitch you will see that the climbing is about to get serious. The second pitch consists of a bouldery crux (some sharp holds and one chipped hold) followed by a nice slab and then another crux passing the roof–the perfect end to the pitch. The third pitch starts also on a good ledge from which you can expect a beautiful view of Omiš. The third pitch consists of a vertical wall with nice moves passing from one side of the wall to the other.
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| 5.1 | Nemesis (1st pitch) | 3a | |||||
| 5.2 | Nemesis (2nd pitch) | 7b | |||||
| 5.3 | Nemesis (3rd pitch) | 7a | |||||
| 6 | Relax | 6c+ | 150 |
5 pitches: 4c, 2, 6c, 6a, 6c/c+. The traverse on the last (and hardest) pitch is a bit uncomfortable but it is safe and nice slab climbing with amazing views. You will need to carry some equipment for anchors (slings, carabiners). All anchors are positoned in a way which allows for nice and comfortable belaying. Watch for loose rocks on the second pitch!
If you want to abseil, don’t forget to tie a knot in the end of the rope and use a 70 meter rope!!! If you don’t want to abseil, just walk (15 min) towards west to get to the village of Naklice from which there is a nice marked trail back to Omiš. Total walking: 30 min |
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| 6.1 | Relax (1st pitch) | 4c | |||||
| 6.2 | Relax (2nd pitch) | 3a | |||||
| 6.3 | Relax (3rd pitch) | 6c+ | |||||
| 6.4 | Relax (4th pitch) | 6a | |||||
| 6.5 | Relax (5th pitch) | 6c+ | |||||
| 7 | Nedovršeni | 4c | 15 | Nice and easy |
Rex Chroatorum - sector
| 1 | Show them tits (Liar) | 7c | 4 | 8 |
Bouldery route with really powerful moves and a dynamic move to make the topout. This one is almost always dry.
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| 2 | Rex Chroatorum | 8a | 5 | 10 |
Intense and powerful with a dyno to finish the route. FA done by Ivica Matkovic in 2001. At that time, this was the first true overhang route and quite the opposite style to the rest of the wider Split area. For that reason the FA is considered worthy of admiration.
One chipped hold. |
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| 3 | Bono | 7c | 10 |
Really nice climbing with toe & heel hooks, kneebars and some nice crimps. Probably soft for the grade.
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| 4 | Zimski san | 7c+ | 10 |
The best route in the sector, with really nice and powerful moves. The beta is really interesting because it has all kinds of movement in one route. Shares the last 2 bolts with the route “Bono”.
One chipped hold. |
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